The Derby

On my first Saturday in Serbia my friends took me to see "The Derby".  It is the rivalry between the top two soccer teams in Serbia (both of who are from Belgrade).  It is Partisan aka gravediggers and red star aka heros.  The teams were both formed after the second world war and have always carried a vague political connection.  The fans have always been devoted.  Since the breakup of the former Yugoslavia and the many wars throughout the Balkans the fans have become more violent.  The hooligans are mostly in their late teens and early twenties.  A group of people who's parents lived well and who are now prisoners in their own country unable to make enough money to do the things they want to do.  The soccer games have provided an outlet for this frustration over the last 15 years, however a very dangerous and often deadly outlet.  In recent years there have been a few deaths.  There are often fights of 50 people vs 50 people before games (all can be seen on youtube), people have been shot, and recently a hooligan got 10 years in jail for stuffing a burning flair down a police officer's throat.  

One of my friends, Ivan, was at a game a few years earlier.  He apparently was not cheering loud enough so a group of people started punching him and chasing him through the stands.  I was told this story on our way down to the game and, to say the least, it did not put me at ease.  Four of us went to the game Edin, Ivan, Vladi, and me.  Vladi and Ivan bought seats on the sides where the neutral fans go to watch the game in peace.  Edin however wanted me to really experience The Derby how it should be experienced and he took me into the heart of the Gravediggers (his team).  We were in the southern end zone bleachers with about 10,000 wild and crazy fans.  We pushed our way through to be in the absolute middle.  

I would not go so far as to say I was scared but a little nervous yes, cautious yes.  I was in the middle of a group of 10,000 angry young people.  People who were angry for not having the opportunities that they deserve.  People who have seen their politicians pull them into war after war.  People who are furious at the west for recognizing Kosovo's recent independence (Kosovo is historically the heartland of Serbia.  Most of the Serbian history, masques, etc is in Kosovo) and who burned the United States Embassy in Belgrade in February ().  Well, with all of this in mind I planned on making sure I cheered the loudest and jumped the highest.

No alcohol is allowed within 1 mile of the stadium.  Starting from about a mile away from the stadium there were cops in riot gear stationed in pairs every 20 feet (head to toe armor with batons, guns, shields, helmets, and masks).  As we got closer to the the field the cops were stationed every three feet.  There were over 2500 cops in riot gear in total.  The games have recently turned more violent and the country was determined to not allow this game to turn deadly.  

  

As soon as the game began the fans erupted.  A banner showing their allegiance to their team was passed over our heads.  The banner was like nothing I have ever seen before.  It was 75 yards wide and 50 yards long.  It stretched over all of our heads and almost the whole end zone.  On the sides people lit colored flares and everyone chanted the Gravedigger songs. After about ten minutes the banner was taken down and we watched the game.  The whole time all the fans were on their feet cheering loudly.  The cheers were directed not towards their team but towards the fans of Red Star.  Calling them every insult that one could think of.  I chanted right along with them all.  Following along in Serbian yelling loud but not loud enough that people could tell I had no idea what I was saying.  I was hoping for a Gravedigger victory, not so much because I was a fan but because I did not want to be amongst this crowd if they lost.  

The Gravediggers did indeed win, 2-0.  After the second goal was scored the fans went crazy.  They lit flares on fire and threw them at the cops that were surrounding the field.  In between the stands and the field were bushes where fans had put flags.  These flags and bushes caught fire from the flares.  The cops rushed forward to put out the fires and the fans in return pulled the seats out of the ground and threw them on top of the police.  

When the game ended everyone filed out of the stadium.  The riot police were everywhere making sure the fans of the two opposing sides could not go near each other.  We made our way to the car and headed back home.  The game was a fun time and I felt I learned a great deal.